Many of us want healthy, smooth lips. But that can feel like a distant goal if you suffer from chapped and dry skin. These problems usually arise due to the unique features of lip skin, including a weak skin barrier and the low water-holding capacity of lips.¹ 

But, there are things you can do, and exfoliating your lips to remove dry, flaky skin is one of them. Here, our licensed dermatology providers will guide you on how to exfoliate your lips properly.

Why you should exfoliate your lips 

The skin of your lips has a high transepidermal water loss (water escaping from the stratum corneum of the lips) and a weaker skin barrier, making it more susceptible to dry conditions.² Some factors that affect the health and appearance of your lips include:³

• Environmental factors. Sun, wind, and extreme temperatures may affect the appearance and health of your lips. 

• Smoking. Smoking and certain medications may impact your lip’s overall health. 

• Aging. Age-related changes may make the lips appear dull. For example, historical analysis of the upper lip showed that collagen and elastic fibers in the cutis (dermis) degenerate during aging. 

Unsurprisingly, many people look for ways to improve the appearance of their lips, with some of them resorting to cosmetic surgery or injections.⁴ Lip exfoliation may be an effective way of removing dead cells that arise due to lip dryness and improving lip appearance without cosmetic procedures. 

Types of exfoliation 

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells to stimulate cell turnover, resulting in a smoother and more polished surface.⁵ Over the years, exfoliation has gained prominence due to its almost immediate results. Today, the availability of a wide range of exfoliation products⁶ also makes it an excellent lip care option. 

There are several ways to exfoliate your lips, but two popular lip exfoliation techniques are chemical and mechanical exfoliation.⁷

• Chemical exfoliation involves using chemicals to dissolve or get rid of dead skin cells gently. Popular chemical exfoliants include lactic acid and salicylic acid.

• Mechanical exfoliation, also known as physical exfoliation, includes abrasive scrubs and brushes that are used to remove the dead skin cells physically.⁸

How often you exfoliate depends on the exfoliation method and skin type. Be careful not to over-exfoliate, as the skin on your lips may get damaged.⁹ Following the lip care instructions of a licensed dermatology provider may help ensure you attain your lip goals. 

Chemical exfoliants vs. physical exfoliants

The main difference between chemical and physical exfoliants is that using a chemical exfoliant doesn’t involve rubbing the skin, given they aren’t composed of granular substances. Alternatively, physical exfoliants involve the use of rough substances to polish the skin.¹⁰

Since every type of exfoliation may not work for all lip skin types, it’s a good idea to consult a dermatology provider before choosing an exfoliation method. They will advise you on the best exfoliation method for your lips. 

How to exfoliate lips properly 

How you exfoliate may determine the results you achieve. It may also determine whether or not you injure your lips. Here are 5 dermatologist-recommended tips for properly exfoliating lips. 

• Be gentle: The skin of your lips is delicate. Whether you’re exfoliating with a brush or your hands, ensure you are as gentle as possible to avoid injuring your lips. Use short, light strokes when using a sponge or brush.¹¹

• Let your lips heal: Don’t exfoliate when you have open cuts or wounds on your lips.¹²

• Avoid over-exfoliating: As mentioned earlier, the lip skin is delicate. As such, over-exfoliating can do more harm than good. Find the right schedule to achieve desirable results without injuring your lips.¹³

• Choose the right ingredients: Beneficial ingredients that may help heal chapped lips include shea butter, petrolatum, mineral oil, hemp seed oil, ceramides, dimethicone, sun protective ingredients including titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, and white petroleum jelly. Ingredients you should avoid when your lips are chapped include camphor, eucalyptus, lanolin, and menthol. It’s advisable to use hypoallergenic and fragrance-free products on your lips.¹⁴

• Keep your lips safe: Hydrate your lips using a good moisturizer, such as a lip balm, after exfoliation.¹⁵ Curology’s Lip Balm with SPF 30 could be an excellent option. This lip balm is designed to lock in moisture with the help of nourishing oils and natural butters.

By following these exfoliation tips, you should have noticeable improvements within a short period. Consult a licensed dermatology provider if you have additional questions about exfoliating your lips. 

What are the benefits of lip exfoliation?

Lip exfoliation offers several potential benefits. For one, it helps remove dead skin cells from the lips. You may use a brush or sponge to gently scrub off the dead cells from your lips. Alternatively, you may use a chemical exfoliant such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids to dissolve the dead skin cells.¹⁶ Whichever option you choose, make sure you are gentle. 

How your lips look may impact your overall appearance, meaning dry lips may influence your attractiveness. 

Can everyone exfoliate their lips? 

While lip exfoliation may improve the overall appearance of the lips, it’s not for everyone. Failure to undertake the procedure properly may result in damaging the skin of your lips. Also, different exfoliants are suitable for specific skin types. For instance, chemical exfoliants may not be ideal for sensitive skin as they may cause some burning or itching sensation. Suppose you decide to exfoliate, ensure you do so safely to avoid skin damage that could lead to redness and other adverse effects.¹⁷

As a good practice, consult a dermatology provider before exfoliating your lips. 

Risks of over-exfoliating your lips

When it comes to lip exfoliation, there can be too much of a good thing. Over-exfoliating your lips may cause adverse effects such as irritation, redness, and skin sensitivity. It may also increase the chances of acne breakouts¹⁸ around your mouth. 

You should create a proper exfoliation schedule for you to avoid such adverse effects. Also, if you experience any of these side effects, stop exfoliating until your skin heals.¹⁹

Curology can help improve the appearance of your lips

Getting your lips to look smooth and shiny shouldn’t take guesswork. Proven-effective lip care products are the best way to care for your lips properly. Curology’s Lip Balm with SPF 30 may help you achieve your lip goals. 

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Our dermatology providers developed this product to be acne-friendly and non-greasy. This lip balm is packed with beneficial ingredients, including plant-based oils, that help ensure your lips are smooth and soft. 

Sign up for a trial* and get your Curology Lip Balm and other products picked for your skin goals. 

P.S. We did the homework, so you don’t have to:

1. Kim, J., et al. Relationship between lip skin biophysical and biochemical characteristics with corneocyte unevenness ratio as a new parameter to assess the severity of lip scaling. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. (June 2021). 

2. Kim, J., et al. Relationship between lip skin biophysical and biochemical characteristics with corneocyte unevenness ratio as a new parameter to assess the severity of lip scaling. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. Ibid. 

3. Trookman, N.S., et al. Clinical Assessment of a Combination Lip Treatment to Restore Moisturization and Fullness. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. (December 2009). 

4. Kar, M., et al. Is it possible to define the ideal lips? Acta Otorhinolaryngologica Italica. (February 2018).

5. Rodan, K., et al. Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open. (December 2016). 

6. Rodan, K., et al. Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open. Ibid. 

7. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to safely exfoliate at home. (n.d.). 

8. Rodan, K., et al. Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open. Ibid.

9. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to safely exfoliate at home. Ibid. 

10. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to safely exfoliate at home. Ibid. 

11. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to safely exfoliate at home. Ibid. 

12. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to safely exfoliate at home. Ibid. 

13. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to safely exfoliate at home. Ibid. 

14. American Academy of Dermatology Association. 7 Dermatologists’ tips for healing dry, chapped lips. (n.d.). 

15. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to safely exfoliate at home. Ibid. 

16. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to safely exfoliate at home. Ibid. 

17. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to safely exfoliate at home. Ibid. 

18. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to safely exfoliate at home. Ibid. 

19. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to safely exfoliate at home. Ibid. 

20. Kim, J., et al. Relationship between lip skin biophysical and biochemical characteristics with corneocyte unevenness ratio as a new parameter to assess the severity of lip scaling. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. Ibid.

21. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to safely exfoliate at home. Ibid.

22. American Academy of Dermatology Association. 7 Dermatologists’ tips for healing dry, chapped lips. Ibid.

23. American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to safely exfoliate at home. Ibid.

Erin Pate is a board-certified Family Nurse Practitioner at Curology. She earned her Masters of Science in Nursing at Florida Atlantic University in Boca Raton, FL.

*Subject to consultation. Subscription required. Results may vary.

Written by

Curology Team

Medically reviewed by

Erin Pate, NP-C