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  • Your dermatology provider prescribes your formula

  • Apply nightly for happy, healthy skin

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Why am I still breaking out with a good skincare routine? Experts explain

Here’s why your skincare routine might not be working as well as you’d like and how to troubleshoot it, according to dermatology providers.

Curology Team Avatar
by Curology Team
Updated on Apr 24, 2024 • 9 min read
Medically reviewed by Elise Griffin, PA-C
A woman's hand rests on her face, as if she's just smacked herself out of frustration.
Curology Team Avatar
by Curology Team
Updated on Apr 24, 2024 • 9 min read
Medically reviewed by Elise Griffin, PA-C
We’re here to share what we know — but don’t take it as medical advice. Talk to your medical provider if you have questions.

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Acne is a skin condition that can be caused by many different factors, all of which can be difficult to discern (lifestyle, hormonal fluctuations, environmental triggers, and so on). Everyone’s skin is unique, so what works for some people’s skin might not work for yours. And that’s okay—it’s why we’re here to help!

Why your skincare routine may not be working

Sometimes, even with the best routine, you might find that you’re still not getting the clear skin you want from your anti-acne treatments. Here are some of the most common factors that could be influencing your results.

Skin purging

When beginning prescription acne treatment, some people may go through a “skin purging” period, where new acne appears. Your skin is likely adjusting to the medication or skincare routine. The purging period is only temporary! We know it’s easier said than done, but try to be patient — it should all clear up within a few weeks.¹

Diet

If you’ve been treating your acne diligently with your prescription formula and you’re still breaking out, there are likely some acne-contributing factors going on behind the scenes that you haven’t yet taken steps to change—such as diet. Yep, certain foods you eat may trigger acne! We’re looking at you, high glycemic index foods and dairy.² Your current acne treatment may appear to be ineffective, but stubborn breakouts can require a more comprehensive approach — a full-court press, if you will!

Hormones

Hormones, especially androgens, significantly influence acne by controlling sebum production in your skin.³ Too much sebum can lead to acne. Additionally, changes in progesterone levels during menstrual cycles often contribute to acne flare-ups.⁴ If you suspect hormones play a part in your acne, speaking with a medical provider is wise. They can assess your situation and suggest suitable anti-acne treatments.

Active ingredients

The effectiveness of anti-acne treatments largely depends on their active ingredients and their doses. If you’ve been using a product for 6-8 weeks without improvement, it might not have the right ingredient or ingredient strength for your skin.⁵ Over-the-counter treatments often have lower doses of active ingredients, so if they’re not working, prescription-strength options may be more effective. Dermatology providers sometimes begin with lower doses and increase them as your skin adapts.

If you’re using Curology Custom Formulaᴿˣ*, reaching out to your provider for an adjustment in dosage or ingredients could make a significant difference in your treatment's success.

Troubleshooting your skincare routine

There are a few possible reasons why your efforts to get rid of acne might not seem to be working:

  1. You’re using too much product and/or using it too often. Using more than the recommended amount of your anti-acne treatment or using it too often can irritate and inflame your skin. Possible solution: Only use acne treatments as directed by the packaging or your medical provider.

  2. You’re using too little product and/or not using it often enough. Not using enough product or skipping out on your daily routine can make your treatment ineffective. Possible solution: Make sure you’re using your acne treatments as directed by the packaging or your medical provider.

  3. You’re using it as a spot treatment instead of applying it everywhere that’s acne-prone.⁶ While this may work well for existing acne, it does nothing to prevent future breakouts. Possible solution: Apply a thin layer of treatment to all acne-prone areas of your face.

  4. You’re still using products that can provoke acne.⁷ If you’re still using skincare or makeup products with pore-clogging ingredients, you may be counteracting what you’re trying to do with your skincare routine. Possible solution: Switch out your skincare products for those labeled “non-comedogenic” which are less likely to cause acne.

  5. You’re washing your face too often or not often enough.⁸ While washing too often can cause irritation, not washing enough can leave dirt and makeup on your skin—Neither is good for acne. Possible solution: For best results, wash your face twice per day, once in the morning and once before bed.

  6. You’re popping or squeezing your pimples.⁹ While it can feel satisfying in the moment, squeezing pimples may actually push pus and dead skin cells deeper, increasing inflammation. Possible solution: Resist the temptation to pop and try one of Curology’s Emergency Spot Patches instead.

Unfortunately, there isn’t really such a thing as instant gratification when it comes to improving your complexion. That doesn’t necessarily mean the product or medication you’re using “doesn’t work.” Follow the directions for use and keep using it, and give your skin a chance to move through its processes and adjust to the treatment. It can take up to 3-6 months of using the treatment as directed to see the full result.

What to do if you feel like your Curology formula isn’t working

If you feel like you aren’t getting the results that you want from your Curology Custom Formulaᴿˣ, here are two steps you can take.

Make sure you’re using your Curology Custom Formulaᴿˣ correctly

To get the best results, apply your Curology prescription formula nightly in these simple steps:

Step 1: Wash your face with water and a gentle cleanser. Gently pat your skin dry with a clean towel, and allow your skin to dry for 5-10 minutes (important!).

Step 2: Pump the formula onto your fingertip.

Step 3: Apply the formula to acne-prone areas of your face and neck in a thin, even layer of cream.

Step 4: Get a good night’s sleep and let your Custom Formulaᴿˣ do all the rest!

Optional: If your skin is sensitive or dry, apply a light layer of moisturizer before or after your Custom Formulaᴿˣ. We recommend our Gel Moisturizer, designed to work brilliantly with your Curology cream, which you can get when you subscribe to Curology.

Use your Curology Custom Formulaᴿˣ consistently, as directed by your Curology medical provider. Your skin responds gradually over time to treatments — in many cases, it can take months to see results — so you may just have to be patient and keep up the good work. And when your skin has cleared up, you should continue treating it with care to prevent new breakouts in the future.

Check-in with your Curology provider

After troubleshooting, if your skin is still not responding, check in with your Curology provider! You might need your Curology provider to adjust the ingredients in your Custom Formulaᴿˣ to find the right combination for your unique skin.

You can contact your Curology provider directly through your Curology account. When you message them, you can also securely upload photos of your skin. Our dermatology providers are committed to responding to messages within 3-4 days during the week and over holidays and weekends.

For most Curology members, applying their Custom Formulaᴿˣ as part of their nighttime routine is all it takes. That said, in some cases, more ammo is needed to defeat acne , such as oral antibiotics or birth control (for women).

For the most stubborn or scarring acne breakout, you may want to talk to your local medical provider about isotretinoin (commonly known by its former brand name, Accutane). This medication can clear severe or treatment-resistant acne when other treatments fail.

The key takeaways

  • Acne is complicated and sometimes, even with a good skincare routine, you might not initially get the results you want.

  • The good news is that you can make changes to your lifestyle or routine to help you start seeing progress again.

  • Some people see results by troubleshooting their skin routine, talking to a medical provider about their hormones, or adjusting their diet.

  • You also might benefit from changing the ingredients in the products you use or switching to prescription-strength products, like those from Curology.

We’re here for the ups and downs of your skincare journey

Skincare isn’t just another step to add to your daily routine: It’s also a journey. As long as you keep at it, you’re making progress! Every frustrating setback along the way is part of the journey and an opportunity to learn something new about your skin’s unique needs.

Get your personalized skincare routine with Curology

Get your personalized skincare routine with Curology

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curology bottle

Remember that throughout this journey, your Curology provider is right beside you — not only to prescribe your Custom Formulaᴿˣ but also to give you the information you need to make the best decisions for your unique skin.

The most important thing is to never give up. We’re always here for you.

If you’re ready to get started with a Custom Formulaᴿˣ from Curology, it’s easy. Just complete a short skin quiz and snap a few photos of your skin. A licensed dermatology provider will review your information/photos and, if Curology is right for you, prescribe a personalized prescription formula with up to 3 active ingredients chosen to help you meet your skincare goals.**

FAQs

What is skin purging?

Skin purging is a temporary reaction to certain acne medications, such as tretinoin, that work by speeding up cell turnover.¹⁰ This process helps clear clogged pores but can initially lead to an increase in acne. It’s like your skin is getting rid of all the impurities at once, which might make things look worse before they get better. This phase is usually temporary, and with continued use of the medication, you should start to see clearer skin.¹¹

Why am I breaking out if I have a good skincare routine?

Even with a good skincare routine, breakouts can still happen if the routine isn’t matched to your skin’s specific needs. Your skin might benefit from tweaking the products you use, possibly changing ingredients or dosages in your acne treatments. 

Additionally, factors beyond skincare, like diet and lifestyle, can significantly influence your skin’s condition. Sometimes, making adjustments in these areas can help improve your skin’s health and reduce breakouts, complementing your skincare efforts.

Why do I still have acne even though I take care of my skin?

Even with a diligent skincare routine, acne can persist due to factors beyond just what you’re putting on your skin. Your diet may be influencing acne flare-ups, as certain foods can affect your skin’s condition.¹² Additionally, hormonal changes are a common culprit behind acne, regardless of how well you take care of your skin.¹³

Why does my acne not go away even with skincare?

Even with a great skincare routine, sometimes acne doesn’t go away because other factors are at play. Your diet and lifestyle can significantly impact your skin’s health, so adjustments in these areas might be necessary. Additionally, if over-the-counter products aren’t effective, it might be time to consider prescription-strength acne treatments. These treatments can be more potent and tailored to your specific skin concerns, offering a solution when non-prescription skincare alone isn’t enough.

• • •

P.S. We did the homework so you don’t have to:

  1. Del Rosso, J.Q. Retinoid-Induced Flaring in Patients with Acne Vulgaris: Does It Really Exist?. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. (May 2008).

  2. Meixiong, J., et al. Diet and acne: A systematic review. JAAD International. (June 2022).

  3. Elsaie, M.L. Hormonal treatment of acne vulgaris: an update. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. (2016, September 2).

  4. Elsaie, M.L. Hormonal treatment of acne vulgaris: an update. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. Ibid.

  5. American Academy of Dermatology Association. Adult Acne Treatment Dermatologists Recommend. (2023, January 10).

  6. American Academy of Dermatology Association. 10 Skin Care Habits That Can Worsen Acne. (n.d.).

  7. American Academy of Dermatology Association. 10 Skin Care Habits That Can Worsen Acne. Ibid.

  8. American Academy of Dermatology Association. 10 Skin Care Habits That Can Worsen Acne. Ibid.

  9. American Academy of Dermatology Association. 10 Skin Care Habits That Can Worsen Acne. Ibid.

  10. Del Rosso, J.Q. Retinoid-Induced Flaring in Patients with Acne Vulgaris: Does It Really Exist?. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. Ibid.

  11. Del Rosso, J.Q. Retinoid-Induced Flaring in Patients with Acne Vulgaris: Does It Really Exist?. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. Ibid.

  12. Meixiong, J., et al. Diet and acne: A systematic review. JAAD International. Ibid.

  13. Elsaie, M.L. Hormonal treatment of acne vulgaris: an update. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. Ibid.

Elise Griffin is a certified physician assistant at Curology. She received her Master of Medical Science in physician assistant studies from Nova Southeastern University in Jacksonville, FL.

*Restrictions apply. See website for full details and important safety information.

**Cancel anytime. Subject to consultation. Results may vary.

• • •
Our medical review process:We’re here to tell you what we know. That’s why our information is evidence-based and fact-checked by medical experts. Still, everyone’s skin is unique—the best way to get advice is to talk to your healthcare provider.
Curology Team Avatar

Curology Team

Elise Griffin, Physician Assistant Curology

Elise Griffin, PA-C

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